Is it possible to fix rrod

Let the console cool for at least an hour before rebooting it. This is the Red Ring of Death referred to earlier. Three LEDs are the code for a general hardware failure. Before you write off your console, make sure this is the problem.

Look at the power source. There should be an LED on the brick next to the power cable that goes into the gaming device. If that LED is green, the issue is with the console. If the LED is red or orange, unplug the power source and check the console on a different outlet. You don't need to plug it into a TV. Instead, ensure the red LEDs don't light up. If you still see red LEDs with a green light on the power source, have the console repaired or buy a new one.

If the console needs repair, remove any accessories or external hard drives. This helps you pick up where you left off on a new Xbox if your original console can't be repaired. This means the cable connecting the Xbox to the television isn't working properly. Shut down the console and unplug the cable completely from both the television and Xbox. Wait a few minutes, and reconnect the two devices.

If the cable still doesn't work properly, replacements can be found online or at any store that sells video games and video game accessories. Not all models have this port, so check first before going to the store. Actively scan device characteristics for identification.

Use precise geolocation data. Select personalised content. If you need to mount the heat sink back onto the motherboard, we have a thermal paste guide that makes replacing the thermal compound easy.

If necessary, insert your screwdriver parallel to the motherboard between the X clamp and its retaining post.

Twist the screwdriver to fully release the X clamp from its retaining post. When removing the last corner of the X clamp and holding the motherboard upside down, be sure to catch the CPU heat sink to avoid damage from it falling. The X-clamps are not reused when installing the red ring of death fix kit. Now that the heat sinks are off both processors, use a plastic spudger to remove all of the old thermal paste residue from the faces of both processors and the inner faces of the heat sinks.

Work slowly as you remove the old residue, as many sensitive components are soldered near the processors. If damaged, you may need a whole new motherboard. It is best to use a solvent such as ArctiClean to dissolve the old thermal paste and remove all residue before applying new paste. Alternatively, you can use a mild solvent such as a high purity rubbing alcohol. You can also use many classic dry-deoxidating sprays: spray it on the paste then rub it; you will remove the paste almost effortlessly and with no residues.

Now is also a good time to clean any dust out from between the fins of both heat sinks. After cleaning, the mating faces of the heat sinks and the processors should look as shown. Before proceeding any further, now is the perfect time to reflow the solder on the motherboard.

Reflowing provides a higher chance of success in fixing red ring failures and is not hard to accomplish. All that is required is a heat gun.

We have a guide that makes it easy. If your motherboard does not have RAM chips on its underside like the board pictured, skip this step. Peel off the four silicone thermal pads stuck to the RAM chips on the bottom of the board. If you have never applied thermal paste, we have a guide that makes it easy. After applying thermal paste to the processors, it is time to reattach the heat sinks one at a time. In our case, we attached the CPU heat sink first. Insert a machine screw through each of the four holes around the CPU heat sink, with their heads on the back side of the board.

While holding the head of the screw, place a nylon washer then a metal washer over the threads. The order of the washers is important. Do not put the metal washer on first. When attaching the CPU heat sink, be sure the fins are aligned with the air flow from the fans as seen in the third picture. Having the flat side of the fins perpendicular to the air flow will cause your Xbox to overheat. Using the large flathead screwdriver bit, tighten the screws into the CPU heat sink.

First lightly tighten the four screws in an X-shaped pattern as seen in the second picture, then follow the same X-shaped sequence to really torque the screws down. Don't be afraid of over-tightening the screws - the pressure between the heat sinks and processors caused by sufficiently torqued screws is needed to squeeze the processors back against the board. Use the edge of your small flathead screwdriver or another thin and sharp object to carefully pull up a corner of the blue or white plastic sheet covering the adhesive on the bottom of both heat sinks.

Lightly clean the surface of the two chips highlighted in red on the first picture. Be sure to position the heat sinks correctly before you stick them down, as the adhesive is extremely strong and sensitive to being repositioned.

Stick the two heat sinks down against the top of the two chips highlighted in red on the first picture, being sure the fins are aligned as seen in the second picture. When reinstalling the optical drive, be sure both the power and SATA cables do not interfere with the heat sink attached closest to their sockets on the motherboard. If your motherboard lacks RAM chips on its bottom face, it is not necessary to apply thermal pads.

Remove the clear and colored plastic backing material from all four thermal pads. If you're using a drill press as I did there should be a steel pedestal with a hole for the drill bit to pass through, saving the case from serious FUBAR-age. Have the bit spinning before you push into the center of the hole. Repeat this for all the holes. Make sure there are no burrs left on the holes or shards kicking around in the case afterwards.

Bang it around a few times to get them out. The last thing you'd want is to have your die from little pieces of metal shorting it out. So far, we've prepped the heatsinks and the motherboard case for these 5MM screws. Now we get to make sumthin' of it! With the case sitting flat, fan hole in the back on the right, take note of where you need to stick these screws.

Now put the 5x15MM screws in the GPU screwholes, screwheads on the outside, so that they come into the case. Put tape over the heads to keep them from falling back out, as shown in the second photo. This tape is very important so don't take it off until I say so!

Ha ha. Lay the case flat again and all the screws should be poking up at you, as they are in the main photo. Place 3 or 4 5MM washers on each of them, the idea being to get them level with the motherboard standoffs.

Use a straightedge to check. If they come up too short or too high the motherboard will get warped and you won't be fixing anything. Now the fun begins. You gotta get the motherboard back in the case with the goal of getting the screws into those orange holes that the X-Clamp posts went through.

All while you try to keep those washers on the screws! If they fall off at any point, you'll have to take the motherboard out, put them back on the screw s , and repeat. So try not to do it, eh? Tilt the case onto its right side where the hard drive connector would be so that you can reach the screws underneath.

Angle the back of the motherboard into the case and push it all the way to the rear of the case. Now, untape one of those rear CPU screws and point it into its hole. Give it a few twists to hold it in place and thread the other one in.

Now, while carefully holding the motherboard and those untaped screws, lower the motherboard until more screws hold you up and get them into their holes. Don't let those washers fall out! When it's all said and done you'll have screws poking through those holes. Tape the heads back to the case so they don't fall out. Now press on the motherboard around the screws. It should be solid at each screw. If not you'll need to get back to those washers and pop another one on.

But if it's all nice and immobile throw two washers onto each GPU screw, one onto each CPU screw, and head to the next step! Now we get to mess with those screws one more time before the tape gets taken off for good. A paper-thin coat will be good. If you're using a silver-based paste, make sure you don't put on a ton because if it gets onto anything the silver's conductivity will mess with the other components.

Pick whichever heatsink you wanna put on first. The easiest way to get this right is to look at the smudge marks on the heatsinks, and match 'em with their processors. When you thread the screws on start each one off lightly, then get them up tightly. Try to get them evenly tightened to avoid having too much pressure on one side of the processor and too little on another.

When it's all done right the heatsinks should not move at all. Now we get to test it out! Otherwise you won't be turning it on. Turn it on without the fans plugged in, checking to see how fast the heatsinks heat up. Getting hot in less than a minute is excellent. Now plug in the fans and put on that plastic fan shroud.

Turn it on again and it should boot up normally, assuming you did the heat test if you didn't plug in the DVD drive, the center LED will blink green. You can tell if this happened if only two lights are blinking.

Wait 3 hours,plug back in and get pwned in Halo 3. Editorials » Hobbies and Interests » Gaming ». Most Popular. The Best Junior Golf Drills. What is Translation? What is a Shared Vision? Top Searches on. Singapore Jobs. By: Marcus Rolland. Discover Handheld Backgammon.